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He’s braising the meat using a new recipe and tinkering with how the bread gets baked, and he’s taken the customer-favorite spaghetti off the menu. Why shouldn’t an Italian beef sandwich be a work of art? By the end of the first episode, Carmy has already retooled the Beef’s offerings. The language and expectations of the high-end brigade de cuisine have been imprinted on him like a tattoo on the soul. Into this swamp of missing money, lifer line cooks, and rag-stuffed grease traps, Carmy brings the sensibility of the classically trained chef. But he is unsure what to do about the three hundred grand that Mikey had borrowed from their Uncle Cicero, a shady businessman (Oliver Platt, alternately lovable and terrifying), who might be the kind of guy inclined to break someone’s legs.
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Carmy, a resourceful businessman, pays off a debt to a beef vender by selling a collection of selvedge denim, plus collecting quarters scooped out of the dining room’s neglected arcade consoles. Carmy has returned to Chicago in the aftermath of his older brother Mikey’s suicide, after being willed his stake in the family restaurant, the Original Beef of Chicagoland, affectionately referred to as “the Beef.” The tragedy has sent reeling the ragtag world that revolves around the Beef, though the restaurant’s creditors don’t care. He is played with rumpled intensity by Jeremy Allen White, who has the lake-blue eyes and crescent-moon profile of a young emperor unaware that he’s about to be murdered by the Praetorian guard.
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The hero of the series is Carmen (Carmy) Berzatto, a driven hot shot who until recently had been running the kitchen at the (unnamed) best restaurant in the world, somewhere in New York City. It’s the aroma that would be pumped into a Smell-O-Vision showing of “The Bear,” which is about a decorated fine-dining chef who returns to Chicago to take over his family’s Italian-beef shop, and to try to save it from disaster.
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(I get mine “sweet and hot, dipped”-both kinds of peppers, plus a full-sandwich dunk in the beefy broth in which the meat has braised for hours.) There’s a smell these restaurants share that’s found in no other place on earth: a layered, rough, masculine perfume of meat and garlic and fryer oil and Formica laminate and sweet, yeasty bread.
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I can summon in an instant the sense memory of stepping inside the doors of Johnnie’s Beef or Al’s on Taylor, and the newborn-like heft of a warm, paper-wrapped beef sandwich.
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The color scheme is brown and beige the diverse, largely blue-collar clientele who line up for lunch every day are a glad-handing politician’s dream the menus rarely stray from short-order classics and local specialties. Not quite a diner, not quite a deli, not quite a fast-food joint, it is a storefront establishment with big plate-glass windows, grubby in a reassuring way, with illuminated signs that advertise Italian beef or gyros. The excellent new FX show “The Bear” takes place in a type of restaurant that only exists in Chicago.